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Refinishing (clean/sand/stain/seal) is typically $3–$7 per sq ft. It’s cosmetic only.
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Resurfacing (new deck boards—often new rail—over a sound frame) usually runs ~$15–$50 per sq ft installed, with wood at the low end and composite/PVC toward the high end.
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Board-only swaps (no rail/stairs repairs) commonly price $15–$35 per sq ft installed. If the frame is tired or rotten, rebuild instead.
Read more: How to Design a deck layout for a small backyard (4m×6m) with steps and seating.
Cost at a Glance (put this high on the page)
Scope |
Typical Price Installed |
Includes |
Good To Know |
Refinish (clean/sand/stain/seal) |
$3–$7 / sq ft |
Prep, stain/paint, sealer |
Best for wood decks with sound boards & structure. |
Resurface — wood → wood |
$15–$25 / sq ft |
Replace worn boards with new PT/wood; basic fasteners |
Keep your frame only if it passes inspection. |
Resurface — wood → composite/PVC |
$35–$50 / sq ft |
New composite/PVC boards + clips over sound frame |
Higher materials cost; lower maintenance. |
Board-only swap (mixed cases) |
$15–$35 / sq ft |
Material + install for deck boards only |
Excludes rail/stair/framing fixes. |
Railings (add/replace) |
$15–$150+ / linear ft |
Posts, rails, infill (wood/composite/metal/cable/glass) |
Wood is least; glass/cable highest. |
Numbers are national ranges. Local labor, access, and repairs can move the total up or down.

What “resurfacing” means (and what it isn’t)
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Refinishing = clean, sand/strip, stain/seal. $3–$7/sq ft. No new boards.
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Resurfacing = keep the frame (posts/joists/beams) but install new deck boards (and often new rails/stairs). Most projects land ~$15–$50/sq ft.
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Rebuild = new frame + new surface (full deck). Typical full-build bands ($30–$60/sq ft) are helpful if your frame fails inspection.
Read more: What deck shape fits an L-shaped house?
Quick self-check: Are you a candidate for resurfacing?
Only resurface if the substructure is sound:
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Ledger is solid & properly flashed (no rot, no pulled fasteners).
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Joists are healthy and spaced to the new board’s spec (e.g., many composites call for 16″ on center, and 12″ O.C. if you’ll run boards diagonally).
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Posts/beams/hardware aren’t rusted out, cracked, or spongy.
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Footings haven’t heaved or settled out of tolerance.
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Railing posts pass a good tug test; weak posts need replacement before new infill.
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Age & repairs: If your frame is ~15+ years and showing multiple failures, don’t put new boards on a tired skeleton—rebuild.
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Manufacturer guidance: If you switch to composite/PVC, follow the brand’s resurfacing/installation guide; many require removing old boards, repairing/cleaning the frame, and then installing new boards with the correct fasteners.
Read more: modern deck ideas with low maintenance.
Worked scenarios (use these to sanity-check quotes)
A) 300 sq ft wood → wood resurfacing (boards only; frame OK; no rail)
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Boards + screws: $15–$25/sq ft × 300 = $4,500–$7,500
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5–8% waste on decking: +$225–$600
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Likely total installed: $4,725–$8,100 (more if you add rail, repair joists, or replace stair parts).
When this fits: Your structure is healthy and you want the lowest day-one price, knowing you’ll refinish again later.
B) 300 sq ft wood → composite resurfacing (new composite boards + clips; frame OK; short rail run)
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Composite resurfacing (boards + hidden fasteners): $35–$50/sq ft × 300 = $10,500–$15,000
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Picture-frame border (optional): +$600–$1,200
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Rail add (e.g., 35 lf): wood $525–$1,050 · composite $1,400–$2,800 · aluminum $1,750–$3,500 · cable/glass $2,800–$5,250+
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Likely total installed: $11,100–$16,200 (rail choice is the big swing).
When this fits: You want low maintenance and a cleaner look, your frame passes inspection, and you’re OK paying more upfront for fewer refinish cycles later.
Read more: Deck: wood vs composite vs stone—pros, cons, cost, maintenance.
What actually moves the price (so your content feels honest)
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Surface material: Wood resurfacing tends to land $15–$25/sq ft; composite/PVC pushes into $35–$50/sq ft.
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Railings & stairs: Biggest per-foot wild card. Wood rails can be $15–$30/lf, composite $40–$80/lf, metal $50–$100/lf, cable/glass $80–$150+/lf (materials + labor).
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Hidden repairs: A few sistered joists? Minor add. Rotten ledger/beam? That’s a rebuild conversation, not resurfacing.
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Access & logistics: Tight gates, long carries, steep slopes = more time.
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Local labor & season: Short seasons and hot metros price higher; off-peak scheduling can help.
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Pattern & border details: Diagonals, inlays, and picture-frame edges increase waste and labor.
Read more: Which deck material stays coolest in summer?
Can you put composite on your existing frame?
Yes—if the frame is sound and the joist spacing matches the product spec. Most brands recommend removing the old boards, cleaning and repairing the frame, and then installing composite with the manufacturer’s clips/fasteners. For example, Trex’s how-to resurfaces onto a cleaned, repaired frame; their joist guidance calls for max 16″ O.C. for standard layouts and 12″ O.C. for diagonals. Don’t install composite over old deck boards; you can trap moisture and void warranties.
Do you need a permit to resurface?
Often, yes—especially if you touch railings, stairs, ledgers, or structure. Rules vary by city:
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Truckee, CA: Up to 66 sq ft of board replacement or 33 lf of rail can be permit-exempt; more than that (or any structural work) requires a permit.
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South Kingstown, RI: Replacing decking & railings requires a permit so guardrails meet current code.
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Montgomery County, MD: A building permit is required for all decks supported by footings; electrical permit needed if you add lighting.
When in doubt, call your building department—permit rules are local, and inspections protect you.
Read more: Slip-resistant deck options for rainy climates?
How to lower the resurfacing bill (without regrets)
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Keep existing rail if it’s solid and code-compliant; replace caps/infill only.
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Choose a simpler rail infill (e.g., wood or basic aluminum vs glass/cable).
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Skip diagonals and inlays; run boards straight to cut waste.
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Schedule off-peak (shoulder season) if your market allows—quotes are often kinder.
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Bundle fixes (ledger flashing, joist tape) during resurfacing to avoid future tear-backs.
Read more: What’s the cost to build a 300 sq ft deck (DIY vs pro)?
Editor’s table: What to budget (and why)
Line Item |
Typical Range |
Why It Varies |
Notes |
Refinishing (clean/sand/stain) |
$3–$7/sq ft |
Size, prep, wood condition, labor |
Cosmetic only; may defer resurfacing a few years. |
Resurfacing (boards only) |
$15–$35/sq ft |
Material (PT vs composite), clips, waste |
Verify frame & joist spacing first. |
Resurfacing (composite/PVC) |
$35–$50/sq ft |
Brand/line, fasteners, layout/pattern |
Diagonal layouts often need 12″ O.C. joists. |
Railing—wood |
$15–$30/lf |
Style, post spacing, site setup |
Cheapest rail category; needs maintenance. |
Railing—composite |
$40–$80/lf |
System parts, color lines |
Mid-to-premium systems price higher. |
Railing—metal (aluminum/steel) |
$50–$100/lf |
Sections vs. custom, finish |
Often sweet spot for durability/look. |
Railing—cable/glass |
$80–$150+/lf |
Hardware, tensioners, glass panels |
Cleanest view; priciest installs. |
Permit (if required) |
City-specific |
Scope triggers (rail/stairs/ledger) |
Many cities require one for resurfacing/rail changes. |
FAQs
Is resurfacing cheaper than rebuilding a deck?
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Yes. Resurfacing keeps a safe frame and replaces the wear layer. Expect ~$15–$50/sq ft installed vs. much higher totals for full rebuilds that include framing and footings.
What’s the cost difference between refinishing and resurfacing?
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Big. Refinishing (clean/sand/stain/seal) runs $3–$7/sq ft; resurfacing (new boards, often rail) typically $15–$50/sq ft.
How much do new railings add?
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Budget per linear foot: wood $15–$30, composite $40–$80, metal $50–$100, cable/glass $80–$150+ (installed). Rail type and length often dominate the add-on.
Do I need a permit to resurface?
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Often yes, especially if you replace rail/stairs or touch structure/ledger. Rules are local: some towns exempt small board-only swaps; others require permits for most deck work. Check your city.
Can I lay composite over my old deck boards?
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Don’t. Manufacturers recommend removing old boards, repairing/cleaning the frame, and installing composite to the joists (often 16″ O.C., 12″ O.C. if diagonal). Laying over old boards can trap moisture and void warranties.
How to brief a contractor (or yourself) for an apples-to-apples quote
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Sketch & scope: total sq ft, rail linear feet, stair risers, and note material (wood vs. composite/PVC).
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State the frame condition (known/unknown) and any desired border/pattern.
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Ask for rail priced per lf and stair priced separately—these are the big variables.
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Confirm joist spacing vs. the new board’s spec (especially for composite).
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Clarify permits (who pulls, who attends inspections). Include a line for joist/ledger repairs if discovered.