Designing Deck Stairs With a Landing: Layout Steps, Code Basics, and a Complete Materials List

 To design deck stairs with a landing, start by measuring total rise, then calculate consistent riser height and comfortable tread depth. Add a landing at the top/bottom (and mid-run or at turns when needed) so users have a safe “pause point” and your build is inspection-friendly. Treat the landing like a mini deck: it needs proper framing, support posts/footings (not “floating”), solid connections, and good drainage. This guide walks you through a practical design process and includes a materials list you can use to budget and shop.

Read more: Outdoor Kitchen on a Deck: What Substructure Do I Need? (Loads, Layout, and a Safe Build Plan)

Why add a landing (and when it’s smart—even if not required)

A landing isn’t just a code checkbox. It’s a safety and usability upgrade. Landings:

• reduce fall risk on long runs

• make stairs easier for kids, older adults, and pets

• provide a comfortable transition at doors

• create a turning point for L-shaped stairs

• help with furniture moves and high-traffic decks (rentals, pool decks, outdoor kitchens)

When a landing is typically needed or strongly recommended:

• At the top where stairs meet a door/deck surface

• At the bottom where you step onto a patio, path, or grade

• Where stairs change direction (turn landing)

• When the stair run is long and you want a “rest” platform (mid-landing)

• Where the bottom of the stair often gets muddy/wet (landing helps keep it stable)

Even if your local inspector allows a run without an intermediate landing, a mid-landing often improves safety and makes construction easier (you can build two shorter stair runs instead of one long one).

Read more: How to Design a deck layout for a small backyard (4m×6m) with steps and seating.

Deck stair basics you must get right (the inspection-fail list)

Before we get into layout, internalize these fundamentals:

1. Risers must be consistent. Small differences are trip hazards.

2. Treads must be deep enough for outdoor use. Shallow treads feel sketchy in rain.

3. Stair width should match your traffic. Narrow stairs are uncomfortable for families and rentals.

4. Landings must be framed and supported. A “floating landing” is a common failure point.

5. Drainage matters. Standing water around stairs creates rot, algae, and slippery steps.

6. Handrails/guards must be planned early. Don’t bolt this on as an afterthought.

Read more: What deck shape fits an L-shaped house?

Step-by-step design process (the practical way)

Step 1: Measure total rise (start with finished surfaces)

Measure from:

• Top of deck surface (or finished deck surface)
  to

• Finished grade at the stair bottom (not bare soil if you’ll add pavers later)

Tip: If you’re planning a patio, pavers, or stone at the base, include that thickness now so your bottom step doesn’t end up “off” later.

Step 2: Choose a target riser height, then calculate number of steps

Outdoor stairs feel best with moderate risers and generous treads. You want a result that feels safe when wet and while carrying items.

How to calculate:

1. Pick a target riser height (example: 7"–7.75" is common in many builds; check local code).

2. Divide total rise by that number.

3. Round to a whole number of risers.

4. Recalculate exact riser height:
   Exact riser = total rise ÷ number of risers

Example:
Total rise = 42"
Choose 7" target riser → 42 ÷ 7 = 6 risers
Exact riser = 42 ÷ 6 = 7" (perfect)

Step 3: Choose tread depth and nosing strategy

Outdoor treads should feel stable underfoot. A deeper tread is safer in rain and with pets.

Practical guidance:

• Aim for treads that allow your full foot to land confidently.

• Avoid “slick + shallow” (it’s the worst combo).

Nosing: If you use a nosing (overhang), keep it consistent and compatible with your chosen tread material.

Step 4: Decide stair width (don’t default to minimum)

A narrow stair meets minimums but feels cramped.

Good planning widths:

• 36": basic residential minimum-style width (often used)

• 42"–48": noticeably more comfortable (great for families/rentals)

• 48"+: luxury look, better traffic flow, easier furniture moves

If the deck connects to a pool, outdoor kitchen, or rental path, wider is smarter.

Step 5: Decide landing type and location

You have three main landing types:

A) Top landing

Often the deck itself serves as the top landing. Ensure door swings and clearances are safe.

B) Bottom landing

A stable surface at the bottom (pavers, concrete pad, framed landing) prevents the bottom step from sinking and reduces mud/splash.

C) Mid-landing or turn landing

Used when:

• you want to break a long run into two shorter runs

• you have an L-shaped stair layout

• the yard slope or layout demands a turn

Rule of thumb: If the stair run feels long or exposed, a mid-landing improves safety and buildability.

Read more: Tools List for DIY Deck Tiles + Time Estimate for 200 sq ft (Complete 2025 Guide)

Landing design: treat it like a mini deck (structure, not decoration)

A landing is a small platform, but it carries real loads and must resist movement.

Landing framing essentials

• Rim/band around the landing

• Joists sized and spaced for the span

• A beam or header supporting joists where needed

• Blocking to stiffen edges and support railing posts

• Proper connectors (hangers, structural screws/bolts)

Support essentials

Most landings should transfer load to the ground via:

• posts

• footings/piers (below frost line where required)

Avoid:

• landings supported only by stair stringers without posts/footings

• landings sitting on bare soil

• platforms that trap moisture underneath

Read more:  modern deck ideas with low maintenance.

Layout method: a simple “buildable” plan (with a mid-landing)

Here’s a layout approach that works well for DIY and pros:

1. Create a landing that’s at least as wide as the stairs.

2. Use a landing depth that allows a safe pause (square landings are easiest to build).

3. Build two shorter stair runs:

• Run 1: deck → landing

• Run 2: landing → grade

Example layout (common)

• Stair width: 42"

• Landing: 42" × 42"

• Total rise: 56"

• Two runs: 7 risers each (14 total risers), depending on riser height and design

This approach:

• reduces stringer length

• makes cutting simpler

• increases comfort and safety

Read more: Deck: wood vs composite vs stone—pros, cons, cost, maintenance

The materials list 

Below is a practical materials list. Quantities depend on stair width, number of risers, and whether you’re doing one run or two with a landing.

1) Structural framing lumber

Stairs

• Stair stringers (site-cut or pre-cut rated stringers)

• Blocking between stringers (improves stiffness)

• Stair headers/ledgers (where stringers attach)

Landing

• Rim boards (landing perimeter)

• Landing joists

• Landing beam/header (as required by span)

• Posts (commonly 4x4, 6x6 depending on height/load)

• Diagonal bracing (especially for taller landings)

Note: Exact member sizes depend on span, height, and local code.

2) Decking and tread materials

• Landing surface boards (decking boards, stone deck system, etc.)

• Stair treads (matching deck boards or dedicated tread boards)

• Fascia boards for stair sides (optional for a finished look)

• Riser boards (optional—open risers vs closed risers depends on your design/code)

Slip note: If stairs are exposed to rain, pool splash, or shade, choose a texture that stays grippy.

3) Footings and post bases

• Concrete mix (or pre-formed footings/piers)

• Sonotube forms (if using poured piers)

• Gravel base (drainage under footings and landing zones)

• Post bases (rated for ground contact and corrosion)

• Post caps (beam-to-post hardware)

If you’re in freeze-thaw zones, footing depth becomes critical.

4) Connectors and fasteners (don’t cheap out)

• Joist hangers (for landing joists where applicable)

• Stringer connectors/hangers

• Structural screws/ledger screws (rated for exterior structural use)

• Through-bolts with washers (for critical connections)

• Exterior-rated nails/screws (galvanized or stainless depending on environment)

• Angle brackets (as needed)

• Construction adhesive (optional in some tread builds)

Coastal tip: Use corrosion-resistant hardware (often stainless or approved coated connectors).

5) Railings, guards, and safety items

• Railing posts (often need extra blocking)

• Handrail components (top rail, graspable handrail where required)

• Balusters/infill (pickets, cables, panels—follow local rules)

• Post anchors and tension ties (important for lateral strength)

• Anti-slip nosing strips (optional but smart for wet zones)

• Stair lighting (optional but high-value for safety)

6) Tools and layout supplies (small but essential)

• Framing square / stair gauges

• Level + string line

• Tape measure

• Concrete mixing tools (if DIY)

• Circular saw + jigsaw (for stringer cuts)

• Drill/impact driver

• Clamps

• Personal safety gear (gloves, eye/ear protection)

High-quality shopping/budget table (add this to your blog)

You can include a table like this to make your post more useful than competitors:

Common mistakes (and how to avoid them)

1) Uneven riser heights

This is the #1 trip hazard. It often happens when builders measure from unfinished grade or forget future pavers.

Fix: Always measure to finished surfaces.

2) Under-supported landing

A landing that “floats” or sits on soil moves over time.

Fix: Posts + proper footings.

3) Long, bouncy stair runs

Long stringers flex and squeak.

Fix: Add a mid-landing or intermediate support.

4) Slippery treads

Smooth surfaces + shade + water = algae and slips.

Fix: Choose textured tread materials; plan drainage and sunlight exposure.

5) Handrails added too late

Railing posts need blocking. If you skip it early, railings end up weak.

Fix: Plan railing post locations during framing.

Drainage and ground prep (the part most blogs ignore)

If your landing bottom sits in a wet zone, you’ll get:

• rot in wood components

• algae buildup

• slippery treads

• frost heave (in cold regions)

Smart ground prep:

• excavate organic soil

• add compacted gravel base

• slope the area so water doesn’t pond under the stairs

• avoid trapping moisture with solid skirting unless ventilated

Where Tanzite Stone Decks can fit (natural, honest mention)

Stair treads and landings take more abuse than the main deck: more foot traffic, more grit, more water. If you’re building a premium look—or a rental deck that must stay “photo-ready”—choosing a tough surface matters.

How to position Tanzite correctly:

• It’s a premium surface option for landings and stair zones because it’s built to hold up to wear and frequent cleaning.

• If you choose a heavier surface, treat it as part of the structural plan (dead load) and frame accordingly.

A clean line you can use in the blog:

For homeowners who want a long-lasting, premium finish on high-traffic stair landings, stone deck surfaces like Tanzite Stone Decks can be a strong option—especially where wood treads wear quickly or get slippery.

FAQs 

Do deck stairs need a landing?

• Typically you need a safe transition surface at the top and bottom, and landings become especially important at doors, turns, and long stair runs. Always verify local requirements.

How big should a stair landing be?

• A practical rule is to make the landing at least as wide as the stairs, and deep enough to safely stand and pivot. Square landings are easiest to build.

Can a landing be supported only by stair stringers?

• It’s risky. Most landings should have posts/footings so they don’t settle or bounce.

What is the easiest way to build safer stairs?

• Use a mid-landing to split long runs, keep risers consistent, use deeper treads, and add solid handrails.

What’s the best material for outdoor stair treads?

• A durable, textured, exterior-rated surface that stays grippy when wet. Avoid slick finishes in shade or near pools.